This week I have made quince jelly, a most fragrant jelly which is a wonderful complement for cheese and pâté, but also an excellent addition to sauces when cooking chicken, quail or game. Leftover juices in the bottom of a frying pan or a roasting tin can be transformed in minutes. Just deglaze the pan with a little wine and some cooking water from your vegetables, add a teaspoon or two of this delicious pink jewel, season, and you have an excellent sauce in no time at all.
Where to find quinces
In the UK, my friend Pauline has a quince tree in her garden, and she would deposit a huge box laden with quince all destined to be transformed into jelly either for personal use or as gifts for friends. Here in the Netherlands however, locating quinces has been something of a challenge, that is until last weekend and a visit to the farmers market in Delden, Streekmarkt Twente. This really is the hardest working condiment in my kitchen, and I am so glad I have at last found a local source. Thank you Bosbessenkwekerij La Francaise.
Method
I like to take my time when making jelly as you get a deeper colour, a more fragrant flavour, and a really good set. I usually take three days… but the process can be done in one day!
Day 1: Cut 3 or 4 large quinces in half (keeping all the pips and skin as they are excellent sources of natural pectin) and place in large saucepan. Cover with water and simmer (uncovered) on a medium heat for 1 ½ to 2 hours until the colour turns a beautiful pink, and the quince has softened. I keep the pieces quite large because the fruit is so hard to cut, but the brave amongst us can of course make the pieces smaller and thus reduce the cooking time. Mash and leave overnight.
This really is the hardest working condiment in my kitchen, and I am so glad I have at last found a local source.
Day 2: Simmer again for another 20 mins or so to deepen the colour. Leave to chill slightly and then put the contents in a muslin square. Hang over a sieve and drain overnight. I do this in the kitchen sink – I tie string round the top of the muslin and hang this from the kitchen tap with a large bowl or jug placed underneath to catch the pink liquid.
DO NOT squeeze the contents of the muslin as this will make the jelly go cloudy.
Day 3: Add 300g of sugar for each 400ml of liquid. Heat slowly to dissolve the sugar. Add the juice of one lemon to aid the setting process. Put on a rapid boil for 10 minutes and then keep checking for a set using the crinkle method. Leave to sit for a few moments to let the scum disperse; stirring gently aids this process. Decant the jelly into hot sterilized jars, leave to cool, then label.
This sounds complicated, but really it isn’t. I use the same method for most jellies – crab apple, blackberry, gooseberry, redcurrant… The possibilities are endless.
I buy the Muslin squares on the internet as they are tricky to source here in the Netherlands – the ones with hemmed edges are the best as they wash well and can be used over and over again.
Have fun and wait for the pop! The sound always makes me smile.
Read more from Clare:
The Wonder of a Fantastic Farmers Market
Chocolaterie Pompadour: Chocolate Cake to die for
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